6 Week Safety Check
Every new bike is due a 6 week safety check from the date of purchase, whether it's been used or not. Gear cables can lose tension, brakes may need adjusting.
Please bring your bike back to store for it's safety check around it's 6 week birthday, we inspect all the key areas of your bike including:-
- Frame, saddle and handlebars
- Wheels (including tyres, rims, spokes and hubs)
- Brake system (including levers, calipers, pads and cables/hoses)
- Drivetrain (including gears, shifters, chain, bottom bracket, cranks and cables)
Failure to have your bike inspected at 6 weeks may cause undue wear and tear from lose bolts or misaligned components.
N.B. This check is only carried out at our Chorley store, if you have bought your bike online, please speak to your local bike shop who will charge a small fee to carry out the checks.
Pre-Ride Safety Checks.
Check your tyre pressure
First, press down on the top of the wheel, and observe the feel of the tyre and how much it bulges against the ground. This doesn't give you an accurate measure of your tyre pressure, but it helps give you a general idea of what your tyres should feel like should you need, in an emergency, to guess whether or not you have adequate pressure.
Check wheel axles / quick-releases
If your wheels are held in place with quick-release levers, check to make sure that the levers are closed with the proper tension. If you're not familiar with the proper use of wheel quick-release levers, ask for help from our Shimano-approved Cytech-qualified bicycle mechanics.
Check your brakes function
Grasp the left-hand (rear) brake lever firmly, and rock the bike forward and backwards. The brakes should hold firmly without slipping.
Repeat using the right-hand (front) brake lever. If either brake does not hold firmly, do not ride the bike, and have the brakes checked by our Shimano-approved Cytech-qualified bicycle mechanics.
Check your wheels are secure and spokes are tight
With the bike resting on the ground, hold the handlebars with one hand, and grab the top of the front wheel with the other hand. Try to rock the wheel side-to-side; there should NOT be any "play" in this direction.
Lift the front end of the bike and spin the front wheel. As the wheel spins, it should feel and sound smooth. If it makes a grinding noise, or if the wheel wobbles from side to side as it spins, have it serviced by our Shimano-approved Cytech-qualified bicycle mechanics.
Repeat the above process for the rear wheel.
Check your crank arms and pedals are tight and bottom bracket free of play
With the bike resting on the ground, stand on the right side of it. The crank is the arm that the pedal is connected to; rotate the cranks so that the arm is pointed up. Grasp the crank arm with one hand, and tug on it firmly, pulling it towards you and then towards the bike. You should not feel any play.
Repeat on the left side of the bike.
If you feel play in the crank arms on both sides, it is likely that the bottom bracket (the set of ball bearings that allow the crank arms to turn) need to be serviced or replaced. If you feel play on only one side, the crank arm itself is probably loose. You may be able to tighten it back down using the bolt in the centre, but if it has worked itself loose it probably needs to be replaced.
Check stem bolts are tight and headset is free of play
The stem is the component that holds the handlebar in place. Stand over the bike with the front wheel between your legs. Grasp the handlebar firmly and try to turn the handlebar without turning the wheel. If the handlebars turn, DO NOT ride the bike and have it checked by our Shimano-approved Cytech-qualified bicycle mechanics.
The headset is the group of ball bearings inside the front part of the bike (the head tube) that enable the steering to operate. To check that they are adjusted properly, grab the right-hand (front) brake lever and rock the bike forward and backward while you hold onto the outside of the bearing areas (at the top and bottom of the frame's head tube). If you feel any play in the bearings, they need to be adjusted by our Shimano-approved Cytech-qualified bicycle mechanics.
Check your chain for wear and rust
Closely inspect the chain. If there's a little surface rust, then you can probably get away with cleaning and re-lubricating it. If it's completely covered solid with rust, then it needs to be replaced. Also check for stiff links
If the chain is covered with chunks of grease or grime, either partially or completely, then clean and lubricate it.
Use a chain wear indicator tool to check the condition of the chain. If the tool indicates that the chain is worn, the chain needs to be replaced.